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The Siskiwit Bay SOF is a multi-chined version of the original Siskiwit Bay cedar strip boat. It’s a great modern British-style sea kayak that a builder can scale down to suit their size. These free kayak plans are for builders desiring a skin-on-frame version of the boat built in Yost-style. For stitch and glue plywood builders, the Siskiwit Bay MC is also available. The plans come as full-sized drawings that you can print.
Note: The sheerline and design features sweeping curves that might challenge first-time Yost-style builders. If you haven’t built a Yost-style SOF before, this might not be the best option.
The basic process of a wooden framed Yost-style SOF is to cut out the six wooden frames, shape them to accept stringers. Glue or nail it all together and then skin it with ballistic nylon. You then coat the nylon with a waterproof coating.
The linesplan gives you an overview of what the finished kayak will look like. This boat has some rocker, which makes it easy to turn. The flare makes the secondary stability feel solid, so it’s easy to hold on edge for quicker turns. The stern stem is harder than the cedar strip version which helps with tracking, because you can’t add a skeg to this boat. The cockpit, which isn’t shown runs between station three and four. It’s 30 inches long.
Stability Chart
Note: This chart shows that the SOF isn’t as stable as the Bay or LV.
Builder’s Pictures
Builder’s Notes
This comes from Mike M about the lower chine stringers and bending them towards the end:
Instead, I soaked a towel, laid it on the stringer, and used a clothing iron set to the highest temperature on the towel to “steam” the end sections of the cedar stringer. Surprisingly, it didn’t take much to soften the cedar to twist it. With some patience and a couple hours, I had all four slotted into place and secured.
I worked one end of a stringer at time, and one end of the kayak before the other. The idea was to make sure each stringer end was in place before moving on to the next. The basic process was steam, twist into the slots, clamp the end, and pin the stringer end in place. After doing all the stringer ends, I went back and lashed them into place on each frame section. I would also like to think that by working one of the stringers at a time that it helped prevent hull warping.
This comes from David D.:
Steaming in a plastic tube (made from some 6 mil poly sheeting formed into a tube using staples and the gorilla tape)worked really well for bending the stringers. About 30 minutes for each stringer.
Could I use the stations(forms) of the SOF version in order to better controll the construction of the S&G version for the Siskiwit bay MC ?
I am not an experienced builder and I am afraid of possible twists or other deformations that I could encounter
Even with the free versions, you don’t need to loft. You just print it full-sized and you’re good to go. I do ask for a donation if you build from the free plans. The nestings give you each frame separated from the rest, so you just cut it out, glue it to the plywood and then cut. You still need to mark out your stringers and the curves between the stringers and the interior.
ok i think i got ya! im new to this but im starting to understand things.what do i get for the full purchase price?do the plans come with the curves on them? thanks jay
For $30, you get an electronic version of the file. You can print it off at an office supply store. For $100, you get everything printed. Each frame is printed separately, so you can just cut out the frame and glue it to the plywood. The plans do NOT come with the curves on them. You need to add the cut-outs for the stringer size you’re using and you need to add the curves and center cut-outs.
Hi Bryan, how does this, and the LV compare? I really wanted a slightly smaller volume boat, wondering whether i could tweak the full size sof to reach LV specs..since it will have to be an SOF..
The LV has a rounded hull shape that’s designed for cedar strips, and it has a slightly different shape with more rocker. It’ll have more primary stability that the SB SOF. The red boat in the picture above was scaled down to 16.5. The easy way to do this is just scale the deck, but with the frames, that makes it difficult to get in an out.
Thanks Bryan, I’ll have to use a little creativity around the cockpit area then. Really like the look of the design, and it would serve the Missus nicely. Was also looking at the Secret, but decided that she needed drag to stay below 5 at a little higher speed..
Appreciated your review of Horton’s “Fuselage Frame Boats” and this plan. I have been lurking on Yostwerks and am considering a SOF Kayak. I am 6′ 4″ tall, 275, size 12 shoe. Does this design have the displacement I need? If not can you recommend a SOF design that can be built Yost style that does?
I think it’ll have the displacement, but I’m not sure it would have the stability for you. The deck won’t be high enough for you either with Yost-style construction. I’m not sure of a design that would work. My cedar strip designs would work, but for SOF I just don’t know.
Hi, I built a siskiwit bay sof from your free plans. Today I got out on the water for the first time(for kayak and kayaker.) Being my first build, I’m sure the kayak didn’t turn out quite like the drawings. However, it paddled well for as far as I can tell. I have pictures of the launch, and I wanted to send them to you, but I cannot find a e-mail address on the site, and the comment thingies do not except pictures.
Just wanted to show off a bit too :) It is a awesome boat, and your plans were easy to work from – thank you for making these available for anyone. :)
– Something is wrong with your contact page, it wouldn’t let me send this through it, it just said “Failed to send your message. Please try later or contact administrator by other way.”
Nestings are the individual station drawings laid out on a ARCH-D-sized electronic paper, so you can print the individual stations off without wasting much paper.
Hi Bryan, I’ve been researching different SOF designs for some time now and I have to say that your Siskiwit is so perfect for me. I mean all the dimensions and sweeping lines just look fantastic! I saw wwFloyd’s pics and that boat is a thing of beauty. The one personal requirement that I really wanted in my upcoming sof kayak build is to make a single chine boat. I wanted a bit less weight, build complexity, and really like the carving abilities of a more Greenland style boat. I don’t suppose you have a version of this with one chine? If not, would it be possible for me to extrapolate and find that single chine placement? I was thinking that on the cross sections the outside lines forming the two chines could extend and intersect to find that point. The resulting cross section would look very much like a S&G Arctic Tern or CLC Shearwater – which your Siskiwit already reminds me of. Does that sound about right or is this a really bad idea?
I don’t have a single chine version of this boat. I don’t see why what you’re suggesting wouldn’t work. My only concern would be how fair the chine would end up being. As far as how it would paddle, I’m not sure. It probably wouldn’t feel like the Siskiwit family, but it might turn out okay.
Hi Brian,
I thought, I would share what your Siskiwit SOF MC can handle. It is really nimble, has a great secondary stability, was really fun to play in a rough water flow at 1400 cfs, where I use to train for white water (catch the eddy, peel out, etc) Sorry for the low definition of the movie.
Thanks for posting the free plans. I’ve been looking over and reseaching online SOF kayaks and a question keeps popping up in my mind, “How much epoxy and resin should I buy to make the scarf joints and to help attach the bow and the stern for the Siskiwit Bay SOF Kayak?”
Bob,
I’ve built 1 with epoxy and my latest (posted here with “yellow” hull & red foredeck) is lashed using artificial sinue per Jeff at Kudzu. The later is easier, less messy, cheaper, and I think stronger. Also, if you mess up, you can start error over without chopping at the stringers or frames. Good luck- EB
Thanks for the advice. My goal was to expoxy the stringers and keel at the scarfs with dowel pins then use the sinue for all other joints. I would imagine gorilla glue is much cheaper than epoxy. Did you lash your scarf joints together by lashing them to the frame? By the way EB, that is a nice looking boat you built.
Thanks Bob,
I epoxied the scarfs and actually dowelled the stringers at the stems with epoxy, but lashed the rest. I felt “glue” made sense there. All up weight with 8oz polyester skin was 34#! At 17′ that is something. Pure joy to roam in. I made a Greenland paddle which I prefer over Euro designs. At 6’1 & 205# I’m snug at the feet, but can wiggle enough for relief. My longest stint has been 4 hrs before jumping ship. Have done some overnight camping too. I installed a messenger line to the bow to run small dry bags up there. Minwax polyurethane at 3 coats sealed her up fine. I just noticed the “in the bones” kayak on the sawhorses is mine too.
Enjoy!
Key to Paka’s scarf with glue comments: the joint needs to be tight. Epoxy allows for imperfection. Not sure how much I used as I already had some. I would think a pint would be more than adequate. I used West, but have no opposition to other brands, just haven’t used them.
I love the SOFs, but I’m now building a strip Outer Island by Jay Babina. Both are much lighter than plastic (roto-molded) kayaks and the SOFs I have built paddle better too.
Very nice! Sounds like a lot of fun. Do you recall how much epoxy you used? How did you configure your scarf joints? Do the joints’ long ends run parrallel with the ground or with the boat or does it matter?
The strength of wood glue on a properly scarfed joint is super strong. Epoxy definitely has it’s uses, but I feel it is unnecessary on a scarf joint of this sort if you know how to scarf a good joint.
If you scarf your pieces with one laying on top of the other, then the joint will be tight. Epoxy is fine in this situation, too, and can add more “fill” if your joint is not an even grade, but if you don’t need it for other uses, it is probably an unneeded expense.
I bought your digital plans and printed them at a copy shop.
Here in the Netherlands it is difficullt to get good not to expansive WRC, therefore I used fir. I had to scarf much because there where lots of knots in the planks. I made a jig 12 to 1 on my bandsaw and that worked very good.
I had a little problems with the last frame that canted a little bit when I took it from the brackets on the strong back. So the bow was a little bit lowered. When I turned it up side down I saw the keel was not in a good curve. I corrected this with some wedges between keel stringer and frames. Now it looks very well.
I made a coming out of plywood and will sew it in.
I bought 9 oz dacron, tight weave, from kudzu craft and had a lot help from Jeff Horton’s website.
I made some more room for my legs by taking away some ‘flesh’ of the topside of the frame in front of the cockpit and ading a laminated ‘masik’. I will try to opload the pictures of the frame.
In january I will start sewing the skin.
Thanks for the design
P.S. Have no idee how to post a picture here
Greetings from the Netherlands have a nice Christmas and a happy Newyear. Stay negative with a positive attitude.
Thank you for the plans. The beast is finished. Your design of the bottom hull is great and exactly what I wanted! I’m just not a fan of high backrests which this design has. Although I lowered it with an inch it’s still too high to my liking. I haven’t looked at the non-SOF plans but it might be there is a recess which accounts for the coaming height? I would certainly build it recessed next time around. Hoping my feedback is not too harsh! You have created a great playful kayak and with the SOF-designs being fairly light in general, with my experimental build method the scales stop at 29 lbs, but it’s got bulkheads, hatches and built in floatation of more than 40lbs. You can check out my build blog at https://rugd.se/kayak/started-a-new-build/
I didn’t go with the oak ribs method I mentioned in our emailing, except in the cockpit area. Maybe that too for the next time :)
Feedback is good. The 8.5-inch rear deck height won’t suit everyone. If you drop the center of the 6’8″ station, the rear deck drops to 7 9/16″. You could added a recess to any cedar boat to get the coaming height where you want it.
41 Comments
Gelu Botezan
Bryan,
Could I use the stations(forms) of the SOF version in order to better controll the construction of the S&G version for the Siskiwit bay MC ?
I am not an experienced builder and I am afraid of possible twists or other deformations that I could encounter
Bryan Hansel
Yes, you could. The shape is exactly the same, so they’ll work just fine for forms.
jason joel
i was wodering about the sof siskiwit plas. if i buy them are they already frames that i can just cutout or do i still have to loft plans.
Bryan Hansel
Even with the free versions, you don’t need to loft. You just print it full-sized and you’re good to go. I do ask for a donation if you build from the free plans. The nestings give you each frame separated from the rest, so you just cut it out, glue it to the plywood and then cut. You still need to mark out your stringers and the curves between the stringers and the interior.
jason joel
ok i think i got ya! im new to this but im starting to understand things.what do i get for the full purchase price?do the plans come with the curves on them? thanks jay
Bryan Hansel
For $30, you get an electronic version of the file. You can print it off at an office supply store. For $100, you get everything printed. Each frame is printed separately, so you can just cut out the frame and glue it to the plywood. The plans do NOT come with the curves on them. You need to add the cut-outs for the stringer size you’re using and you need to add the curves and center cut-outs.
Ulrik Schou
Hi Bryan, how does this, and the LV compare? I really wanted a slightly smaller volume boat, wondering whether i could tweak the full size sof to reach LV specs..since it will have to be an SOF..
Thanks
Ulrik
Bryan Hansel
The LV has a rounded hull shape that’s designed for cedar strips, and it has a slightly different shape with more rocker. It’ll have more primary stability that the SB SOF. The red boat in the picture above was scaled down to 16.5. The easy way to do this is just scale the deck, but with the frames, that makes it difficult to get in an out.
Ulrik Schou
Thanks Bryan, I’ll have to use a little creativity around the cockpit area then. Really like the look of the design, and it would serve the Missus nicely. Was also looking at the Secret, but decided that she needed drag to stay below 5 at a little higher speed..
Robert Terry
Bryan,
Appreciated your review of Horton’s “Fuselage Frame Boats” and this plan. I have been lurking on Yostwerks and am considering a SOF Kayak. I am 6′ 4″ tall, 275, size 12 shoe. Does this design have the displacement I need? If not can you recommend a SOF design that can be built Yost style that does?
Bryan Hansel
I think it’ll have the displacement, but I’m not sure it would have the stability for you. The deck won’t be high enough for you either with Yost-style construction. I’m not sure of a design that would work. My cedar strip designs would work, but for SOF I just don’t know.
Edward Breeden
What is her carrying capacity or displacement?
Are there offsets available?
Looks sweet!
Bryan Hansel
Here’s the Hydro:
Design length: 17 feet
Design beam: 1.757 feet
Design draft: 0.417 feet
Length on waterline: 14.908 feet
Beam on waterline: 1.649 feet
Displacement: 295 lbs.
Longitudinal center of buoyancy: 7.878 feet
Transverse metacentric height: 0.761 feet
KAPER/Winters
1 knot – 0.24
2 knots – 0.87
3 knots – 1.81
4 knots – 3.35
4.5 knots – 4.66
5 knots – 6.87
You don’t need offsets, because you can just take the drawings to an office supply store and have them print full-sized.
Mollie French
Hi, I built a siskiwit bay sof from your free plans. Today I got out on the water for the first time(for kayak and kayaker.) Being my first build, I’m sure the kayak didn’t turn out quite like the drawings. However, it paddled well for as far as I can tell. I have pictures of the launch, and I wanted to send them to you, but I cannot find a e-mail address on the site, and the comment thingies do not except pictures.
Just wanted to show off a bit too :) It is a awesome boat, and your plans were easy to work from – thank you for making these available for anyone. :)
– Something is wrong with your contact page, it wouldn’t let me send this through it, it just said “Failed to send your message. Please try later or contact administrator by other way.”
Edward Breeden
I’ve begun this build too. would love to see your photos. Thanks- EB
Bryan Hansel
I’d love to see the photos. You can email them to publisher@paddlinglight.com. Thanks!
Josh
I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “nestings”. Can you help me understand? Thanks.
Bryan Hansel
Nestings are the individual station drawings laid out on a ARCH-D-sized electronic paper, so you can print the individual stations off without wasting much paper.
phrancis
Hi Bryan, I’ve been researching different SOF designs for some time now and I have to say that your Siskiwit is so perfect for me. I mean all the dimensions and sweeping lines just look fantastic! I saw wwFloyd’s pics and that boat is a thing of beauty. The one personal requirement that I really wanted in my upcoming sof kayak build is to make a single chine boat. I wanted a bit less weight, build complexity, and really like the carving abilities of a more Greenland style boat. I don’t suppose you have a version of this with one chine? If not, would it be possible for me to extrapolate and find that single chine placement? I was thinking that on the cross sections the outside lines forming the two chines could extend and intersect to find that point. The resulting cross section would look very much like a S&G Arctic Tern or CLC Shearwater – which your Siskiwit already reminds me of. Does that sound about right or is this a really bad idea?
Bryan Hansel
I don’t have a single chine version of this boat. I don’t see why what you’re suggesting wouldn’t work. My only concern would be how fair the chine would end up being. As far as how it would paddle, I’m not sure. It probably wouldn’t feel like the Siskiwit family, but it might turn out okay.
Gelu Botezan
Hi Brian,
I thought, I would share what your Siskiwit SOF MC can handle. It is really nimble, has a great secondary stability, was really fun to play in a rough water flow at 1400 cfs, where I use to train for white water (catch the eddy, peel out, etc) Sorry for the low definition of the movie.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYuj888TQfg
As I can see you don’t have the pictures of my kayak anymore( can’t see any in the builder’s pictures), should I send them again?
Bryan Hansel
I found them and added them. Cool video. I really like the whirlpool action at the end.
Gelu Botezan
Yeah, was hunting that whirlpool all the time but it was very volatile . I only got into it a few times in a 4 hour struggle :)
Bob
Thanks for posting the free plans. I’ve been looking over and reseaching online SOF kayaks and a question keeps popping up in my mind, “How much epoxy and resin should I buy to make the scarf joints and to help attach the bow and the stern for the Siskiwit Bay SOF Kayak?”
Edward Breeden
Bob,
I’ve built 1 with epoxy and my latest (posted here with “yellow” hull & red foredeck) is lashed using artificial sinue per Jeff at Kudzu. The later is easier, less messy, cheaper, and I think stronger. Also, if you mess up, you can start error over without chopping at the stringers or frames. Good luck- EB
Bob
EB and BH
Thanks for the advice. My goal was to expoxy the stringers and keel at the scarfs with dowel pins then use the sinue for all other joints. I would imagine gorilla glue is much cheaper than epoxy. Did you lash your scarf joints together by lashing them to the frame? By the way EB, that is a nice looking boat you built.
Edward Breeden
Thanks Bob,
I epoxied the scarfs and actually dowelled the stringers at the stems with epoxy, but lashed the rest. I felt “glue” made sense there. All up weight with 8oz polyester skin was 34#! At 17′ that is something. Pure joy to roam in. I made a Greenland paddle which I prefer over Euro designs. At 6’1 & 205# I’m snug at the feet, but can wiggle enough for relief. My longest stint has been 4 hrs before jumping ship. Have done some overnight camping too. I installed a messenger line to the bow to run small dry bags up there. Minwax polyurethane at 3 coats sealed her up fine. I just noticed the “in the bones” kayak on the sawhorses is mine too.
Enjoy!
Bob
Very nice! Do you remember how much epoxy you used? How do you like using a SOF kayak?
E Breeden
Key to Paka’s scarf with glue comments: the joint needs to be tight. Epoxy allows for imperfection. Not sure how much I used as I already had some. I would think a pint would be more than adequate. I used West, but have no opposition to other brands, just haven’t used them.
I love the SOFs, but I’m now building a strip Outer Island by Jay Babina. Both are much lighter than plastic (roto-molded) kayaks and the SOFs I have built paddle better too.
Bob
Very nice! Sounds like a lot of fun. Do you recall how much epoxy you used? How did you configure your scarf joints? Do the joints’ long ends run parrallel with the ground or with the boat or does it matter?
Paka
The strength of wood glue on a properly scarfed joint is super strong. Epoxy definitely has it’s uses, but I feel it is unnecessary on a scarf joint of this sort if you know how to scarf a good joint.
If you scarf your pieces with one laying on top of the other, then the joint will be tight. Epoxy is fine in this situation, too, and can add more “fill” if your joint is not an even grade, but if you don’t need it for other uses, it is probably an unneeded expense.
Bryan Hansel
I’ve used gorilla glue on a Yost-style SOF before. But, I like EB’s suggestion the best.
daniel daniels
Hallo Brian,
I bought your digital plans and printed them at a copy shop.
Here in the Netherlands it is difficullt to get good not to expansive WRC, therefore I used fir. I had to scarf much because there where lots of knots in the planks. I made a jig 12 to 1 on my bandsaw and that worked very good.
I had a little problems with the last frame that canted a little bit when I took it from the brackets on the strong back. So the bow was a little bit lowered. When I turned it up side down I saw the keel was not in a good curve. I corrected this with some wedges between keel stringer and frames. Now it looks very well.
I made a coming out of plywood and will sew it in.
I bought 9 oz dacron, tight weave, from kudzu craft and had a lot help from Jeff Horton’s website.
I made some more room for my legs by taking away some ‘flesh’ of the topside of the frame in front of the cockpit and ading a laminated ‘masik’. I will try to opload the pictures of the frame.
In january I will start sewing the skin.
Thanks for the design
P.S. Have no idee how to post a picture here
Greetings from the Netherlands have a nice Christmas and a happy Newyear. Stay negative with a positive attitude.
Bryan Hansel
Sounds like a fun build. You can email me pictures at publisher@paddlinglight.com. Looking forward to seeing your kayak.
Tibor Berki
Hi Bryan!
Thank you for the plans. The beast is finished. Your design of the bottom hull is great and exactly what I wanted! I’m just not a fan of high backrests which this design has. Although I lowered it with an inch it’s still too high to my liking. I haven’t looked at the non-SOF plans but it might be there is a recess which accounts for the coaming height? I would certainly build it recessed next time around. Hoping my feedback is not too harsh! You have created a great playful kayak and with the SOF-designs being fairly light in general, with my experimental build method the scales stop at 29 lbs, but it’s got bulkheads, hatches and built in floatation of more than 40lbs. You can check out my build blog at https://rugd.se/kayak/started-a-new-build/
I didn’t go with the oak ribs method I mentioned in our emailing, except in the cockpit area. Maybe that too for the next time :)
Cheers and happy paddling,
T
Bryan Hansel
Feedback is good. The 8.5-inch rear deck height won’t suit everyone. If you drop the center of the 6’8″ station, the rear deck drops to 7 9/16″. You could added a recess to any cedar boat to get the coaming height where you want it.
I love your building blog. It’s really well done!